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Valentino Couture Spring 2017

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Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017 Valentino Couture Spring 2017Valentino Couture Spring 2017. Images & Source Via WWD

One could argue that this couture season saw two major debuts, the more obvious, that of Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri. In a sense, her former partner, Pierpaolo Piccioli, had his own debut, his first solo couture collection for Valentino, since he and Chiuri ascended to the role of joint creative directors after the retirement of the house founder.

“To do couture for a designer is a great opportunity,” Piccioli said during a preview, appearing not at all frazzled on the eve of his third show in three weeks. (He’s shown men’s last week in Paris, and prior to that, pre-fall, in New York.) “For me to create couture, to have the opportunity to work with the atelier, is a dream come true.”

For spring, Piccioli staged another exquisite Valentino Dream sequence. What did surprise: The challenging nature of the collection. These were not easy clothes. Exquisite, yes, but not easy in terms of proportion. Dresses fell free-form to the floor from a high neck or off the shoulders, unfettered by demarcations of waist or hips. Often, subtle trapeze cuts, pleats and vertical ruffles added sly volume to the gentle plissés and chiffons. The overall look was surrealist, otherworldly nightgown; these beauties could have costumed Heaven in a Cocteau film, had he been a minimalist. There were day looks as well, including a round-shouldered cape and a long white coat embroidered discreetly with classical symbols of love and nature, both in sturdy, austere cashmere double-face.

Runway

Valentino RTW Fall 2016

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Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016 Valentino RTW Fall 2016
Valentino RTW Fall 2016. Source & Images Via WWD

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s stunningly graceful fall collection for Valentino gave us more of their fashion philosophy, drawing on the “Happening” performance art movement of the Fifties and Sixties and the value it placed on viewer participation and the concept of the ephemeral, as well as further exploration of the dance motifs tested in the spring couture collection.

The tony street-goth tone of the tailored navy and black double-breasted coats over matching ribbed-knit turtlenecks, ankle-length tulle skirts and combat boots that opened the show came as surprise — a great one. Dancers off-duty came in moody layers of mannish outerwear over long skirts, and modernist jersey dresses with spaghetti straps that laced in back over collar bone-framing ballerina shirts, as Chiuri and Piccioli intuited the styles of Karole Armitage and Martha Graham into gorgeous day- and eveningwear. There were moments of austerity, dark and sober in a plain black tutu dress over a black turtleneck and leggings; and light and fluid in earthy, draped jersey dresses that fell in soft, clingy pleats around the body. And there were notes of romantic decoration, via graphic triangle and circle embroideries and prints that referenced costumes from the Ballets Russes.

The variety was amazing. A gold velvet dress with a flounced top and a long ribbon belt wrapped around the waist worn over a blush turtleneck exuded the charming shyness of an understudy. A silver-fringed sweater and gold-fringed skirt had the seasoned glamour of a ballet master. There were bad-girl black swans in tulle, leather and witchy gold-star embroideries, and ingenues in the breathless finale of transparent, tea-stained tulle dresses decorated with fluttered ruffles, a sweetheart-shaped bodice and twinkly stardust.

accessory lust

Embellished handbag straps are the new it charm

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Embellished handbag straps are the new it charm. Images Via Fendi, Valentino & Saks

We love a purse with a charm, and now Fendi and Valentino allows us to purchase individual shoulder straps which we can use to update our existing purses. You can change your personality with just a strap switch!

Fendi’s Strap You collection offers nine unique two-tone shoulder straps done in classic leather or exotic materials, such as python, or in multicolor stud embroiderly.The retail for $900 to $1,000 each. Handbags are sold separately, so bag straps are just another clever way for us to personalize our handbags.

Valentino features hand-held totes with detachable cross-body straps with a military theme. Camouflage, butterfly and elephants embroidery and a colorful strap that evokes the Mochilla woven bags popular in South America. Valentino go around the same prices as Fendi.

What are your thoughts on the Fendi Strap You and Valentino Guitar Strap collection? We’d love to hear your thoughts!

Runway

Valentino Couture Spring 2016

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Valentino Couture Spring 2016 Images Via WWD

Speaking to Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli is always like hearing an Italian art history lesson in stereo. In one ear, she is talking about Mariano Fortuny, his Delphos dress, and “aged” velvet, and in the other, he’s speaking about Isadora Duncan and Loie Fuller and their “expressionist dancing.” All of this exotic early-20th-century Venetian-pagan romanticism was sewn lightly into the Valentino Haute Couture collection and trailed around by barefoot nymphs with gold metal serpents writhing in their tendriled tresses. Via Vogue

All I Want

VALENTINO STREET BEADED SNEAKERS

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The image of the festival girl, that elusive free-spirited creature, has been lingering in the fashion imagination for the last few seasons, from her flower-topped crown right down to her gladiator sandal-clad toes. And yet few can bring those familiar bohemian references to an entirely new place in the same way that Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli can.

While the silhouette of drop-waisted and bell-sleeved lace dresses evoked the easy romance of barefoot flower children, the intricate hand of the clothes spoke to a distinctly modern couture-like craftsmanship that we’ve come to expect from this talented pair: We love these casual Chuck Taylor–style sneakers spun with a beaded star-spangled motif that stood on the same level as the treatment of the exquisite evening looks.

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