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Runway

Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2016

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Marc Jacobs RTW Fall 2016 Source & Images Via WWD.com

“I felt things I’ve never felt before.” “They should put him at Dior.” Two sentiments heard while exiting Marc Jacobs’ extraordinary show on Thursday night.

Marc Jacobs is a company in transition. We all know that. The integration of the expanded price structure of the Marc Jacobs brand after the shuttering of Marc by Marc Jacobs is a work in progress; full realization wasn’t going to happen overnight.

What is not in transition: the passion of the designer. Nor his talent, nor his belief in fashion, in its power, its ability to impact those who participate in it in a deep and meaningful way. Nor his refusal to cave an iota in his creative resolve.

The models’ eyes and lips were black. The clothes were dark, wondrous, inventive, eccentric pilings of tweeds, furs, silks, and endless decoration, Victoriana meets Goth meets Biker Chic meets Varsity Chic meets Red Carpet meets Violet Incredible and countless other girls of Jacobs’ runways past. Cats, rats, cherubs and ballerinas got acquainted on prints, a giant raven took up residence on the back of a jacket and a lady named Gaga walked the show (first picture), gigantic coats, sweaters and broderie anglaise vinyl skirt.

Runway

Michael Kors Collection RTW Fall 2016

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Michael Kors Collection RTW Fall 2016 Via WWD.com

Michael Kors elevates the real, the wearable, in some cases, the mundane, to a place so alluring, what fashion-aware woman wouldn’t want in? But then, Kors’ seasonal starting point is always “the women.”

“It’s always been about the muses,” he said during a preview. “In a strange way, they all kind of float through my head, they all kind of mash up together.” He ran off a litany of “theys”: Lee Radziwill, Penelope Tree, Diana Ross, Nan Kempner, Alexa Chung, Zendaya, Blake, women “unabashedly in love with looking fabulous.”

And doing so in a real-world context, albeit a tony one. This show was all about function made special and chic — coats (and more coats), sweaters, pants and skirts, the regular trappings of getting dressed, only delightfully zhooshed up. How everyday? Kors opened with the core basics — peacoat, white blouse, pullover and jeans, but the jeans happened to be feathered from the knees down. Camel made it onto the runway in a shawl-collared coat — a floral intarsia mink, worn over a sweater and tattersall cropped pant. Other coats got abundant fur collars or were cut in glistening floral brocades. An otherwise austere officer’s coat was sashed in mink. Another simple pleasure, knitted cashmere, came in a charcoal sweater-and-skirt duet that got the reality diva treatment with feathers — including matching feathered opera gloves.

Runway

Gucci Pre-Fall 2016

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Gucci Pre-Fall 2016. Images & Source WWD.com

Does the sum of a vast, sometimes disparate range of covetable, luxurious pieces make a collection? Yes, according to Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele. The designer continued his very personal path to reshaping the brand’s image, delivering a pre-fall collection that channeled a wide scope of themes and motifs, many carried over from his past efforts. The result was chaotic coherence.

Printed shirtdresses came in retro-inspired graphics and botanical motifs. Nature is one of Michele’s ongoing fixations, with flowers and wild animals, including the now-familiar tigers and snakes, embroidered on flamboyant knits, exquisite maxidresses and high-end denim pieces. They latter served as a preciously casual counterpoint to the hyper-luxe outerwear: opulent floral jacquard coats trimmed with fur, mink coats printed with stripes, stars, hearts and moons, and colorful astrakhan cropped jackets and capes trimmed in mink. The overall result was extremely appealing in its overwhelming abundance.

Runway

Michael Kors RTW Spring 2016

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The feminine looks stole the show. Michael Kors printed or embroidered skirts and dresses with tightly packed masses of blossoms. He called them “desert flowers,” a handle that lent itself to a palette of deep red, strong blue and khaki. Among the stunners: a crimson washed-faille dress with plunging neckline and tiered skirt and a newfangled poet’s blouse, in a lapis poppy print with matching skirt. The level of intensity in the combination of bold color and ample volume extracted any trace of sweetness. In its place: flower power of the chicest sort.

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Runway

Delpozo RTW Spring 2015

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Delpozo RTW Spring 2015: Josep Font’s reverie-inducing creations are fashion at its most fantastical. Each of his imaginative collections for Delpozo is a meticulously composed exploration of sculptural shapes and couture-like fabrications. This season, the Madrid-based designer made brave new proposals about color, specifically referencing Josef Albers’ artwork as an inspiration. Font opened his Spring show by reinterpreting sportswear staples in extreme proportions, pairing structured jackets and crisp shirting with ultra-wide-legged culottes or trousers. A particular standout was a strapless, color-blocked frock with voluminous structured pleats, which was layered over a short-sleeved button-up. Creative Director Josep Font played with volume, proportion and illusion at Delpozo’s superb spring outing.

He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origami-like panels.

From there, Font moved into a series of intricate looks that highlighted his innovative approach toward materials and craftsmanship. Shiny, crackled vinyl spots contrasted beautifully with delicate chiffon on several pieces, densely crocheted crop tops and dresses had three-dimensional appeal, and an intricate jungle-patterned jacquard peppered with monkeys added a touch of wit to the mix. The lineup ended on a dramatically feminine note with a trio of embroidered tulle bobbinet numbers (influenced by artists Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka) that floated like clouds over the bod—they were the stuff that dreams are made of.

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