Archives for New York Fashion Week

Runway

Gucci Pre-Fall 2016

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Gucci Pre-Fall 2016. Images & Source WWD.com

Does the sum of a vast, sometimes disparate range of covetable, luxurious pieces make a collection? Yes, according to Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele. The designer continued his very personal path to reshaping the brand’s image, delivering a pre-fall collection that channeled a wide scope of themes and motifs, many carried over from his past efforts. The result was chaotic coherence.

Printed shirtdresses came in retro-inspired graphics and botanical motifs. Nature is one of Michele’s ongoing fixations, with flowers and wild animals, including the now-familiar tigers and snakes, embroidered on flamboyant knits, exquisite maxidresses and high-end denim pieces. They latter served as a preciously casual counterpoint to the hyper-luxe outerwear: opulent floral jacquard coats trimmed with fur, mink coats printed with stripes, stars, hearts and moons, and colorful astrakhan cropped jackets and capes trimmed in mink. The overall result was extremely appealing in its overwhelming abundance.

Runway

Michael Kors RTW Spring 2016

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The feminine looks stole the show. Michael Kors printed or embroidered skirts and dresses with tightly packed masses of blossoms. He called them “desert flowers,” a handle that lent itself to a palette of deep red, strong blue and khaki. Among the stunners: a crimson washed-faille dress with plunging neckline and tiered skirt and a newfangled poet’s blouse, in a lapis poppy print with matching skirt. The level of intensity in the combination of bold color and ample volume extracted any trace of sweetness. In its place: flower power of the chicest sort.

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Runway

Delpozo RTW Spring 2015

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Delpozo RTW Spring 2015: Josep Font’s reverie-inducing creations are fashion at its most fantastical. Each of his imaginative collections for Delpozo is a meticulously composed exploration of sculptural shapes and couture-like fabrications. This season, the Madrid-based designer made brave new proposals about color, specifically referencing Josef Albers’ artwork as an inspiration. Font opened his Spring show by reinterpreting sportswear staples in extreme proportions, pairing structured jackets and crisp shirting with ultra-wide-legged culottes or trousers. A particular standout was a strapless, color-blocked frock with voluminous structured pleats, which was layered over a short-sleeved button-up. Creative Director Josep Font played with volume, proportion and illusion at Delpozo’s superb spring outing.

He began with exaggerated sportswear silhouettes: the widest of red culottes paired with a white wrapped bandeau, and the fullest of skirts, beautifully done in a white, navy and green midi strapless dress with a white shirt underneath. He then shifted gears into more sculptural pieces inspired by the land art of Nils-Udo, including a yellow top with an exaggerated peplum and a sculpted flower on the bodice, and a miniskirt with origami-like panels.

From there, Font moved into a series of intricate looks that highlighted his innovative approach toward materials and craftsmanship. Shiny, crackled vinyl spots contrasted beautifully with delicate chiffon on several pieces, densely crocheted crop tops and dresses had three-dimensional appeal, and an intricate jungle-patterned jacquard peppered with monkeys added a touch of wit to the mix. The lineup ended on a dramatically feminine note with a trio of embroidered tulle bobbinet numbers (influenced by artists Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka) that floated like clouds over the bod—they were the stuff that dreams are made of.

Runway

Michael Kors RTW Spring 2015

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The new Spring collection delivered on Kors’ sunny reputation, and then some. Daffodils, wisteria, and geraniums were picked out in sequins on tulle dancer skirts, embroidered on a strappy sundress, or printed on a breezy natural linen skirt suit. Gingham, which we’ve been seeing everywhere, was paired with marinière stripes. And for every navy outfit, there was another in bright yellow.

Happy yet? The flower-averse needn’t worry: Kors had plenty on offer here that registered in a lower key. Simplicity is trending; shirt-and-skirt combos are one of the week’s dominant motifs on the runways and off. This is a good moment to be Michael Kors. As the king of American sportswear, he excels at such things. We’re betting a plaid taffeta button-down tucked into a black wool gabardine sarong will be one of the show’s most popular outfits. Another nice look: a crisp white poplin shirt with French cuffs that inched past the fingertips, worn with a hands-in-the-pockets full black silk mikado skirt. Show us a girl who didn’t light up at the sight of that one.

Flowers abounded — pristine daisy appliqués on all-white looks; a camellia print on a pajama; big geraniums embroidered on indigo mikado. Kors delivered on the sporty side of his equation with cropped chinos, one pair worn with a shirt and gray cashmere pullover with matching corsage; strong outerwear, and his grounded footwear. This included a rugged sandal set on a prim, low heel.

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Runway

Marc By Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2015

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Marc By Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2015 Images & Source WWD

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring. It pulsed from the set, a triangular light installation in the vast dark openness of Pier 94, which shook with hard-core bass.

No raves were actually attended in Hillier and Bartley’s research, but they liked the idea of the freedom of that kind of low, EDM culture. “Taking something like a filthy, disused warehouse and turning it into this church of youth.” “Be who you are” would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, her hair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

The pastels and plastic treatments — on dresses, legwear, molded bags and rubber boots — were culled from the Ferus Gallery, which represented Craig Kauffman, Robert Irwin and Larry Bell in the late Fifties and Sixties in Los Angeles. The color and shine lent a sense of lightness, movement and euphoria to the lineup, a contrast to tough canvas utility gear and the schizophrenic compilations of casual staples — sweatshirts and T-shirts with graphics by Fergus Purcell, spliced with pleated skirts and corsets. Forget refrigerators and air conditioners, Marc by Marc is the new Energy Star.

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