Archives for John Galliano

Runway

{runway} Oscar de la Renta RTW Fall 2013

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Via WWD – New York Fashion Week

So how was the De la Renta-Galliano combination? A tale of two designers, it had mystery, suspense, harmony, beauty, optimism — and some truly great clothes.
Fashion Scoop

{news} Oscar de la Renta Gives John Galliano A Second Chance

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Oscar de la Renta may be paving the way for John Galliano to reenter the fashion world as de la Renta has invited Galliano to spend some time with him in his New York design studio over the next three weeks.

“John and I have known each other for many years and I am a great admirer of his talent,” de la Renta said. “He has worked long and hard on his recovery and I am happy to give him the opportunity to reimmerse himself in the world of fashion and re-acclimate in an environment where he has been so creative.” De la Renta expects Galliano to bring a vibrant, talented presence to his design studio.

The three weeks of Galliano’s residency run into fashion week. Asked if he will welcome Galliano’s opinions on his own studio work, de la Renta offered a hearty affirmation. “While I’m working on a collection, I sit with all of my assistants around me,” he said. “I’m not a loner. I listen to everyone. I wish the Virgin Mary would come and sit next to me. I love to be surrounded by people.”

“I am grateful to Oscar beyond words for inviting me to spend time with him in the familiar surroundings of a design studio,” Galliano said. “His support and faith in me is humbling.”

Hats off to Oscar de la Renta. This move may ignite controversy but we believe that everyone in life deserves a second chance.

{Source & Images WWD.com}

collections

{collection} John Galliano Resort 2013

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Resort marks a new direction for John Galliano. Creative director Bill Gaytten has embarked on a more contemporary image inspired by actresses Dakota and Elle Fanning. A candy-colored pastel spray print appeared on a little cropped jacket paired with a full skirt, as well as a pleated long dress over pants. Painterly black-and-white vertical stripes were worked on flowing pantsuits, while Fifties prom dresses inspired a group of taffetas tops and shirtdresses cut loose for a younger look.


{Source & Images WWD.com}

fashion 101

{editorial} A journey through Dior

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Following more than a year of speculation, French fashion house Christian Dior finally announced April 9 that Belgian creator Raf Simons has replaced John Galliano as the label’s creative director, with the former Jil Sander designer telling The New York Times’ Suzy Menkes he is aiming for a “very modern Dior” when he presents his debut line at Paris Couture Week this July. But with the designer adding that he plans to “also look back” and take inspiration from the 1947-1957 period of the fashion house, let’s consider the label’s past creative directors and their contribution to the Dior aesthetic:

1947-1957 Christian Dior
The label’s founder and namesake heralded what became known as the New Look back in 1947 when he presented a particularly feminine collection dominated by long flowing skirts, tiny waists and soft shoulders, which provided a stark contrast to the slinky silhouette of the 1930s. Top clients included Marlene Dietrich and The Duchess of Windsor, while today’s stars continue to embrace his ladylike designs — Natalie Portman wore a red polka dot haute couture creation conceived by Dior in 1954 to this year’s Academy Awards.

1957-1960 Yves Saint Laurent
Before founding his namesake maison in 1962, Yves Saint Laurent achieved fame as Dior’s successor, with his debut show in 1958 adding a sense of youthfulness to the brand with a softer interpretation of the New Look. While later experiments with hobble skirts and a beatnik aesthetic didn’t go down so well with the press at the time, Saint Laurent left his biggest mark with the trapeze dress he showcased in 1958. With its free-swinging shape, the loose-fitting style was a stark contrast to Dior’s cinched-in creations.

1961-1988 Marc Bohan
Bohan remains the longest-serving couturier at Dior to date, and although his creations were more conservative than those of his predecessors, the designer ensured the maison remained one of the world’s most in demand with top clients including Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Grace of Monaco. One of Bohan’s most acclaimed collections was the Fall/Winter 1966 line, with its tweed coats, fur trims and long black boots inspired by the movie Doctor Zhivago.

1989-1996 Gianfranco Ferré
The first non-French creator at the helm of Dior, Italy’s Gianfranco Ferré was chosen by owner Bernard Arnault to replace Bohan, and his eclectic collections brought plenty of differing elements to the Dior aesthetic ranging from a dandy influence to Renaissance shapes, although it wasn’t until the appointment of Galliano in 1996 that the label would return to its most pioneering roots.

1996-2011 John Galliano
Combining Dior’s fondness for femininity with a strong theatrical influence, British fashion designer Galliano embraced Kabuki styling and gave the fashion house a much more distinct aesthetic, notably with his flamboyant haute couture shows. His designs were embraced by everyone from the late Princess Diana to actress and fashion maverick Tilda Swinton, who wore a huge fruit-printed Dior gown to the 2001 Cannes Film Festival.

{Images Life.Time.com/Source Relaxnews}

Runway

{live from the runway} John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012

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Bill Gaytten’s second solo show for John Galliano solidified how things are going to proceed from here on out. By sticking to a stripped down-yet-loyal continuation of the namesake’s work, Gaytten can keep the label breathing — if not with Galliano’s original gusto. That is most likely his proposed agenda.



The fall Galliano girl was an English thoroughbred, clad in a rich ensemble of equestrian-inspired gear with a lush libertine spirit. The designer said he had been looking at the drawings of Aubrey Beardsley, the late 19th century English dandy and subversive Art Nouveau sensation who palled around with Oscar Wilde.



Gaytten reinterpreted the classic riding coat with a traditional eye, showing trim jackets and coatdresses done in accordion pleats in front and caped backs lined in jewel-toned silks. That was the main message for day, to which he added lavish blouses with poet collars. A sheer caped style in a chandelier print felt like a light, new take on the subject.

{Images Via StyleBistro.com/Source WWD.com}

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