Dior Pre-Fall 2015 Collection: Dior took over Tokyo’s sumo stadium on Thursday night to showcase creative director Raf Simons’ vision for pre-fall: a futuristic, outdoorsy take on daywear rife with both function and sequined shimmer.
“I think it’s a little bit more edgy, this one. So I’m very excited,” Simons said. The Belgian designer said he drew inspiration from disparate influences — the movie “Blade Runner,” Tokyo’s street fashion and urban sprawl, the Sixties-era experimentalism of Paco Rabanne, an old photo of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin in paillette-embellished underwear — and distilled them into new wardrobe pieces for the Dior woman trekking into the city in the dead of winter or taking a mini break with her kids at the Welsh seaside.
The resulting “Esprit Dior” collection was a chic, modern lineup heavy on coats and coat-like dresses in structured, outerwear fabrics, many of them based on the house’s signature Bar shape that Simons said he wanted to push “even further.” He turned to “outdoor” fabrics like heavy cottons, washed leathers and waxed fabrics to construct much of the collection. Structured coats and bustier dresses were layered over skintight, sequined bodywear, which Simons called a “second skin.” Several of these shimmery pieces featured intricate patterns mimicking knitwear motifs like the cable and Fair Isle. Other exits included a mink and patent leather dress and a silver leather astrakhan coat. There were chunky platform boots and micro Miss Dior bags, while rough stone rings adorned nearly every model’s finger.