Valentino RTW Fall 2016. Source & Images Via WWD
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s stunningly graceful fall collection for Valentino gave us more of their fashion philosophy, drawing on the “Happening” performance art movement of the Fifties and Sixties and the value it placed on viewer participation and the concept of the ephemeral, as well as further exploration of the dance motifs tested in the spring couture collection.
The tony street-goth tone of the tailored navy and black double-breasted coats over matching ribbed-knit turtlenecks, ankle-length tulle skirts and combat boots that opened the show came as surprise — a great one. Dancers off-duty came in moody layers of mannish outerwear over long skirts, and modernist jersey dresses with spaghetti straps that laced in back over collar bone-framing ballerina shirts, as Chiuri and Piccioli intuited the styles of Karole Armitage and Martha Graham into gorgeous day- and eveningwear. There were moments of austerity, dark and sober in a plain black tutu dress over a black turtleneck and leggings; and light and fluid in earthy, draped jersey dresses that fell in soft, clingy pleats around the body. And there were notes of romantic decoration, via graphic triangle and circle embroideries and prints that referenced costumes from the Ballets Russes.
The variety was amazing. A gold velvet dress with a flounced top and a long ribbon belt wrapped around the waist worn over a blush turtleneck exuded the charming shyness of an understudy. A silver-fringed sweater and gold-fringed skirt had the seasoned glamour of a ballet master. There were bad-girl black swans in tulle, leather and witchy gold-star embroideries, and ingenues in the breathless finale of transparent, tea-stained tulle dresses decorated with fluttered ruffles, a sweetheart-shaped bodice and twinkly stardust.