Victoria Beckham has been feeling the creative urge to readdress her aesthetic signature now that she has a store of her own in London. Indeed, the designer approached spring a lot like a retailer, with staple items — a shirt, a sweater, a coat — that may have hinted at a few directions but were united by Beckham with polish and commercial appeal. These included the uniform-inspired jute looks, such as the elongated coat with subtle military details like soft epaulets and workwear pockets. The knits and graphic stripes made a bolder statement, though she kept the lineup’s surprise for the finale of bright florals that were screen-printed on voluminous woven raffia skirts and shown with white cotton shirts. It may have been a sharp turn from the rest, but Beckham saw a romance in these looks. As she put it, they were “the perfume to the collection.”
Everything was impeccably done—that’s Victoria. But at times it also felt derivative, and it came at the expense of what was once her core message. As her brand has grown, Beckham has branched beyond the sexy, fitted dresses with which she made her first big splash. That’s necessary and good, though not always easy. You couldn’t fault the cool precision of this collection, but it did make you long for the days when she put a little wiggle on it.
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