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Marc By Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2015

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Marc By Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2015 Images & Source WWD

Energy — the driving force of the planet, whether it unites, divides, uplifts or negates. In a matter of three seasons, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have infused Marc by Marc Jacobs with the kind of charge that people seek out. Young, fierce and intense, the powerful attitude established for fall gained momentum for spring. It pulsed from the set, a triangular light installation in the vast dark openness of Pier 94, which shook with hard-core bass.

No raves were actually attended in Hillier and Bartley’s research, but they liked the idea of the freedom of that kind of low, EDM culture. “Taking something like a filthy, disused warehouse and turning it into this church of youth.” “Be who you are” would be the mantra of the spring Marc by Marc girl. Wearing a cropped T-shirt layered under a plastic, pastel-blue polka-dot bandeau and matching skirt, her hair twisted into a mohawk of mini-buns, she would be the confident nonconformist at the party — intimidating but probably a lot of fun.

The pastels and plastic treatments — on dresses, legwear, molded bags and rubber boots — were culled from the Ferus Gallery, which represented Craig Kauffman, Robert Irwin and Larry Bell in the late Fifties and Sixties in Los Angeles. The color and shine lent a sense of lightness, movement and euphoria to the lineup, a contrast to tough canvas utility gear and the schizophrenic compilations of casual staples — sweatshirts and T-shirts with graphics by Fergus Purcell, spliced with pleated skirts and corsets. Forget refrigerators and air conditioners, Marc by Marc is the new Energy Star.

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