Derek Lam RTW Spring 2015: Joni Mitchell was on the speakers singing about “falling in love again,” but you didn’t need the Lady of the Canyon to tell you we were going back to the 1970s at Derek Lam. His preoccupation with the decade is well known. Still, the nostalgia factor ticked up a few notches this season—there’s something about patchwork suede with contrast topstitching that just takes you back. But if Lam’s references felt quite literal this time around, that didn’t make the clothes any less compelling. For one thing, the ’70s are having a moment. For another, it’s great to see a designer embracing his passions with such gusto.
Beyond all that topstitched suede, which came in gorgeous color combinations of lilac and violet or denim blue and emerald, there were flares, and lots of them. High-waisted or hip-slung, some with double rows of buttons at the hips sailor pant-style, they glided out on flatform sandals or flats, leg-elongating either way. “It’s a continuation of my preoccupation with being an American designer,” Lam said backstage. “I love the American codes: the jean jacket, the shirtwaist.” The basic tee is another classic that got a rethink, in cashmere and silk ribbed knit. On the not-so-basic end of things were dresses, the bustlines of which were outlined in brass studwork. Joni Mitchell would’ve fallen hard for those.
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