Runway

Burberry Prorsum RTW Spring 2015

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Christopher Bailey donned his rose-tinted glasses — and beetle-green, cornflower, and mimosa lenses, too — for a collection that drew on the joys of a country spring. There was no sign of mud, manure or mosquitoes in Bailey’s Eden, only gossamer fabrics, iridescent surfaces — and decorative bugs.

Runway music was on theme with a live acoustic-guitar performance by James Bay playing “Clocks Go Forward,” among other songs. It was a whimsical, sensual — and ultimately wearable — collection from the brand’s chief creative and now chief executive officer, who said he was drawn to the idea of rebirth — and to the contradiction between the fragile and the strong.

Those ideas played out in hard and soft pairings such as wasp-waist denim jackets— some edged in shearling or ostrich feathers, others adorned with glossy leather patches — and skirts made from swirls of pastel tulle or paved with iridescent yellow paillettes the size of silver dollars. Jackets done in cropped fur the color of mimosas or in beetle-green suede were layered over diaphanous pleated dresses — some strapless and tiered, others with high waists. Bee- and butterfly-print dresses had fluttery tulle panels at the front, or at the shoulder, while printed trenches, their designs inspired by vintage nature illustrations, were cinched at the waist with soft swathes of tulle.

Shoes — not fragile by any means — were foot-friendly in the form of flat, Birkenstock-like sandals with chunky, multicolored straps, or bright patchwork sneakers.

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