Giambattista Valli chose the gilded splendor of the Italian Embassy in Paris as his venue, his fourth collection that opened his show with a minimalist evening coat with a wasp silhouette; the waist pinched, and the silk fabric flaring over the hips.
This exit proved the main template for the lineup, built on long or short dresses either in smudged black-and-white animal prints or bearing light surface decoration. Curbing his penchant for hedgelike volumes and embroideries, notwithstanding coats and dresses paved in flowers, their petals composed of feathers, Valli showed off his more restrained side. A bustier dress, the animal print veiled with black tulle, was graphic and sexy.
The finale gowns, some in heavy silks and bearing long trains, finally displayed a semblance of their grand surroundings, encircled with sculptured corset belts echoing the botanical vines that crept over the ceiling.