Salvatore Ferragamo’s creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, had been hoping for sunset light to caress his rich-hippie collection, inspired by island vacations in the Mediterranean and a tour along Big Sur. The delicate, dusty colors were a key statement. His mind also went to the shades of the paper used five centuries ago by Leonardo Da Vinci.
The low-wattage hues put the focus on haute craftsmanship: low-slung leather pants laced together in broad strips, densely crocheted skirts swishing with fringe and Mod shift dresses composed of micro swags of silk fringe. Giornetti noted that four people toiled for 10 days on one sexy tank dress — a marvel of pale leather strips married to small metal plaques.
However, the clothes were often overwhelmed with detail — lacing, grommets, knotting, plaiting and drawstrings — and leg-baring dresses pavéd in racy snake prints or micro studs veered from the brand’s usual old-world glamour.