{live from the runway} Valentino RTW Fall 2012

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You would never know it from the parade of precise black leathers — among them a cape, a jumpsuit with a cut-out back, a long trench and Bermuda shorts — that opened the Valentino show, but Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were doing “folk in a very contemporary way,” Piccioli said during a preview. Then, the curly frogging on a coat and raw stitching on a top offered a clue. But even as the collection, which was full of beautiful pieces, progressed into more obvious thematic turf — a textural coat inspired by an exotic carpet, for example — it was less about quirky charm or global eclecticism than elevating crafty details and treatments to the luxury stratosphere.

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Categories: Runway.

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