{live from the runway} Versace Fall/Winter 2012

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In the Versace show, the clothes were all gothic drama and underground kink, as Donatella Versace turned on the dark for fall. Not even her high glamour gloss of crystals and articulated curves (both here in spades) could file down the edge.

The show opened with two black velvet dresses — one covered up, one bare — both embroidered with leather Byzantine crosses, a recurring motif. Versace played it big — blaring and bejeweled smack in the middle of a corset — and small, crafting a breastplate out of laser cut black on a fitted and flared moto jacket that was sleekly executed. But things got silly where the crosses were used as colorful prints, which segued to letters that spelled V-E-R-S-A-C-E all over dresses. Such gothic glitz relates to the house vernacular for sure, but shown so blatantly it bore the look of a secondary collection, not because it looked cheap, but too flagrant. Giant letter-block prints don’t play well on designer turf.


Categories: Runway.

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