The show opened with two black velvet dresses — one covered up, one bare — both embroidered with leather Byzantine crosses, a recurring motif. Versace played it big — blaring and bejeweled smack in the middle of a corset — and small, crafting a breastplate out of laser cut black on a fitted and flared moto jacket that was sleekly executed. But things got silly where the crosses were used as colorful prints, which segued to letters that spelled V-E-R-S-A-C-E all over dresses. Such gothic glitz relates to the house vernacular for sure, but shown so blatantly it bore the look of a secondary collection, not because it looked cheap, but too flagrant. Giant letter-block prints don’t play well on designer turf.